Here is the view from our hotel window in the old part of Rome.
We woke early still tired and suffering the 6 hour time difference from Singapore. Taxi ride to the Rome Terminii station, to catch the 12.30pm train to Naples. It was a nice comfortable trip. The train was a Eurostar and we had reserved seats. So two comfortable hours later we arrived in Naples. Then the comfort finished.
We were travelling with 2 large suitcases (approx 20 kgs each), 2 medium sized suitcases (approx 15 kgs each), and 2 carry-on bags (maybe 5 kgs each). Additionally we had a shoulder bag carrying the new fangled video camera, our 4 passports, pocket camera, etc. You get the picture? Whenever we moved from A to B, B to C, …, Y to Z, we were shuffling a bit of luggage as well. After getting off the Eurostar at Naples, we made our way, awkwardly, to the Circumvesuviana Station, via many, many stairs (similar to the ones you’d see at Wynyard Station, not an escalator or lift in sight anywhere). Also travelling to Sorrento on the Circumvesuviana were an American couple that we’d met on the Eurostar. They were warned by the guards that they were wearing too much “bling”, to take it off, and to beware because there had been a lot of robberies on the trains so far that morning!! We eventually got our bags to the correct platform and the six of us bunched together to wait for the Circumvesuviana. It is a commuter train that travels from Naples, through the outer suburbs, including Pompeii, to Sorrento an hour away. When we boarded, the train was packed and we stood all the way, jammed close to the doorway. It would have been a pick-pocket’s field day. The train seemed to be 3 quarters packed with locals, not terribly impressed with all the room we were taking up with our bags, and the other quarter were obviously tourists like ourselves sporting expensive cameras, and bling.
We spent the hour on full alert but alighted at Sorrento leg weary, but having suffered no material loss. It was now mid afternoon. We needed to catch a bus from Sorrento to Praiano (approximately one hour away). We needed to buy tickets for the bus at the “biglietteria” (a ticket office/newsagent/tobacconist) located downstairs. Not wanting to lose our bags, we took them into the shop. A went elsewhere to find a drink, while J joined a queue. Meanwhile Michaela made the mistake of picking up one of the comic books. “SIT DOWN on the floor and don’t touch anything!!” screamed the old dragon behind the counter (she had a wonderful way with potential customers) , though in Italian, her meaning was pretty clear, and Michaela understood perfectly. J decided it safer to take Michaela by the hand and keep her in the queue out of harms way. After J had managed to ask for the four tickets to Praiano in primitive Italian, J made the mistake of asking for further assistance, where would we go to catch the bus from? She just screamed at J to get the bags out of her shop! We didn’t understand much of what she screamed, but it sounded nothing like “Welcome to Sorrento”.
We found the bus (we hoped it was our bus) and after loading our bags hopped on board and enjoyed a fascinating ride through Sorrento and along the Amalfi Coast road. This was a full-size bus riding on roads jam packed with motor scooters and tiny European cars (the cutest being the Smart Car). How it made it through the skinny winding lanes, I have no idea. Along the coast, in some areas you are inches (2 or 3, no more) from the concrete wall of only 2 feet or so high and maybe 8 inches wide. After that? A hundred feet steep drop into the Mediterranean. These drivers honestly have nerves of steel, truly incredible. We took some footage. Seeing is believing, and if I hadn’t seen it, I wouldn’t believe it. Half way along the coast road a loud bumping noise was heard, and then people at the back of the bus began to shout. Apparently the cargo hold had opened and luggage was being strewn out along the road behind us. The driver nonchalantly stopped, walked back along the road collecting the discarded items and returned them to the cargo hold. I was having a cardiac because I’d put my new camera in our luggage while going through Naples, thinking that a thief would find it harder to make off with a 20 kg suitcase, then cutting and running with my shoulder bag. Thankfully our bags were not included in the “fallen”.
After an hour, we arrived in Praiano. We hopped off the bus, collected our luggage, and yelled out a loud “grazie” to our bus driver as he disappeared along the coast road. We had arrived in Prainano, but had no idea where the hotel was located, and had no phone to contact them. And so we started walking, luggage in tow. Not too far along the road we came to a fork. The fork to the right was a continuation of the coast road. The fork to the left was a very steep, narrow road that climbed up the mountainside. This steep road had a sign for our hotel. With hindsight, it would have been infinitely more wise for J to have searched out the hotel by himself on foot, while A and the kids stayed with the luggage. Then J could have returned with someone from the hotel to collect family and luggage. But this is not what we did. We kept thinking that the hotel must be just around the next corner. And so we walked about a kilometre up this steep road, having to duck to the side of the road whenever a scooter, or smart car decided to use the same narrow strip of bitumen. (Did I mention that it was hot, and the luggage was beginning to seem heavier by the minute).
Amalfi Coast Road east from Praiano
Eventually, at around 6 o’clock, we rounded a corner, and found a grouping of houses that included our hotel. Of course when we checked in we were told that we should have called, they would have come and picked us up! Next time. We were exhausted, but that night after having freshened up and gone to dinner, we felt elated to have finally made it, and we had arrived in a truly beautiful place. We slept early, and well that night.
Praiano is located along the steep sides of the Monte Comune & the mountain Sant' Angelo a Tre Pizzi. There are wonderful towers that are perched on rocky crags. I loved the Cathedral of San Luca. San Luca was founded in about 1123 A.D., but it was restored in 1588. Praiano is still basically a fishing village with warm, kind people. The fish and seafood served at the hotel was beautifully fresh and cooked to perfection. Praiano has little family run shops that sell everything. Il tuto per tuti, was the one we bought bread and cheese, ham and wine from - keeping them from their siesta we realised later. The gardens in the terraces around the hotel are worked as market gardens.
Hotel Magherita : view out window from bedroom
Andrew enjoys the view
J enjoys the serenity
The views are imprinted on my brain and I will never forget.
Here is a photo of the market garden opposite our balconey. The woman you see came out at 8am and again around 4pm to collect herbs and other vegies each day into her basket.
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